When you visit Vietnam there are some places you must visit, one of those is Halong Bay. But is it really worth it?
In this short post, we will share our point of view on Ha Long Bay and the nearby island of Cat Ba, recommending you the best ways to enjoy these places in Vietnam in nature, away from the crowds.
Is Halong Bay really worth visiting?
We’re not entirely sure.
Halong Bay is the main destination for many people who travel in North of Vietnam, it is a UNESCO site and its nature is undoubtably stunning. However, mass tourism is ruining it from harbour to bay.
Hundreds of boats navigate the bay every day, and those that stay at night for a one-day or two-day tour are numerous. All these boats are polluting air and water in such a way that the only thing you smell is engine fumes. Not to talk about the massive rubbish and waste each of them generate.
We genuinely felt guilty of being part of this polluting machine and we asked ourselves how much are we willing to pollute in order to enjoy nature. We invite you to ask yourself the same.
What’s the best way to visit Ha Long Bay?
We believe a day tour of the bay has a lower impact that an overnight cruise. So if you really want to visit Halong Bay- and we get you want to – please consider a day trip.
This won’t save you from the thousands of people visiting the same spots (the cave and the viewpoint) making them very crowded and annoying to walk.
However, this will save you some time to head to a much better and less tourist destination nearby: Cat Bà island and its Lan Ha Bay.
Visiting Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay
Lan Ha Bay is smaller but very similar to Halong Bay and if you book a day tour with a local family – including lunch and kayak – you’ll be able to enjoy some quiet spots away from the crowd. Also, we believe you’ll be able to organise a tour near Halong Bay as well.
You can organise everything in advance through your accommodation or just ask at the harbour in Cat Ba – Cai Beo Ferry Terminal and Dock – for a private boat; remember to negotiate the price!
Where to stay in Cat Ba
Cat Ba Rustic Homestay is the best accommodation in Cat Ba!
Thùy and her family are lovely, rooms are cosy and clean and food is delicious. They live in a quiet town and you can rent a scooter from them to go around the island.
What to visit in Cat Ba
Hospital Cave (40,000 VND), a cave inside a mountain which was used as a bunker and hospital; Thug Thang Cave, a natural cave with stalactites and stalagmites, and the National Park (80,000 VND one ticket for both).
Hiking in the National Park is a nice experience and you have two options:
1) if you don’t have much time, follow the loop path up to Dinh Ngu Lam, the peak/viewpoint, and enjoy a stunning view over green mountains;
2) if you have a full day, you can walk to the village of Viet Hai (3 hours one way) – see the map below for more tracks and details.
Unfortunately, some areas and facilities in the National Park are run down and abandoned, but the hiking track is well marked.
If the weather is good and hot, you can also relax on one of the beaches near Cat Ba town or ask for local recommendations.
How to get to Halong Bay and Cat Ba
There are countless tour operators in Hanoi that will organise a full tour for you, taking you to Halong Bay or Cat Ba and coming to pick you up. We recommend that you ask to your accommodation in Hanoi to help you out organise it for you; otherwise, you can check on booking.com, TripAdvisor or local tour offices.
We reckon that the cheapest way to enjoy the area is to catch a bus and then a ferry go to Cat Ba. Here your options:
- Bus to Tuan Chau Port (near Halong Bay Port) and then ferry to Gia Luan on Cat Ba, there is a local ferry for 60,000 VND (walker fare). The timetable for this ferry is the following: 7h30, 9h00, 11h30, 13h30, 15h00. If you miss one, you can ask for a speedy boat and negotiate the price.
- Bus to Ben Pha Got (or Got Pier) and then a ferry to Cai Vieng, here more info.
What we would do if we were to do it again
Option 1 – 3 days, 2 nights: Skip Ha Long Bay and enjoy Cat Ba only
Day 1: Trip from Hanoi to Rustic Homestay in Cat Ba. Once in Cat Ba, visit the hospital cave in the early afternoon (it closes at 5pm) and/or go to the beach.
Day 2: Day tour with the host family in Lan Ha Bay.
Day 3: Visit Thug Thang Cave (20 minutes) and the National Park (about 2 hours). Have lunch and get picked up at 4pm at Rustic Homestay in Cat Ba – pre arrange this with your accommodation in Hanoi or ask them to help you. Get back to Hanoi by 8pm
Option 2 – 4 days, 3 nights: Book a day tour for Halong Bay from Hanoi, asking to return on a different day, and then go to Cat Ba for 3 days.
Day 1: Tour in Halong bay. After the day tour, go to Tuan Chau Port and then to Cat Ba (see above).
Grab a taxi to Rustic Homestay or arrange a pick up with them in advance.
Stay at Rustic Homestay for 3 nights.
Day 2: Day tour with them in Lan Ha Bay.
Day 3 /morning of day 4: Visit the caves, the National Park and the beaches in Cat Ba.
Day 4: Get picked up at 4pm at Rustic Homestay in Cat Ba – pre arrange this when you book the day tour in Halong Bay. Get back to Hanoi by 8pm
